Thursday, 28 June 2007

Blueberries


It's always nice to have fruit in the garden, I find that blueberries are wonderful on the patio for nibbling and they add a splash of colour and they're a fantastic power food!!


Blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum) require a very acid soil, (pH 4.5-5.5), which is well drained but moisture retentive. Where this cannot be provided they are best grown in 30-38cm (12-15in) diameter containers of ericaceous compost. Choose a sheltered site in full sun or part shade.


Planting

Bushes for containers can be planted at any time in good growing weather, but in the ground, plant after leaf fall (November to March). Prepare soil by digging in composted bark or sawdust. Then trim off tips of branches and remove any flower buds so the plant will establish strong roots in its first year. Space bushes 1.5m (5ft) apart, although compact cultivars can be planted closer. Mulch newly-planted blueberries with composted or chipped pine bark, or leafmould if available.

For container growing, buy a bush in a 2-litre pot and check the rootball in spring every couple of years (lift plant from its pot) to see if it needs repotting. A 50-litre pot may finally be needed.



Watering


Blueberries should be watered little and often using rainwater. Do not allow to dry out even if this means resorting to tap water in dry spells. Mulch open-grown plants with bark mulch or pine needles to conserve moisture.


Pollination and fruiting

Blueberries have two flushes of growth. In spring they bear flowers on the tips of the previous-season’s growth. These flowers become the first crop of berries. New sideshoots develop just below these berries. Later, (usually in July), strong new shoots grow from the base of the plant, and produce flower and fruit buds at their tips. This second, later crop of berries is usually plumper than the first.

Blueberries benefit from cross-pollination by other varieties, which results in better fruit set. Keep plants in a sheltered spot to encourage visits from pollinating insects.
Pick fruit in stages as it ripens, protecting from birds if necessary. Ripe fruit should part easily from the cluster and will be deep mauve with a grey bloom. Each bush can provide 2-5kg (4.5-11lb) of fruit.
Kate :o)

Ericaceous Compost

Ericaceous Compost

This is a specially formulated sterilised loam-based, lime-free compost with essential plant foods for certain plants. It is a traditional loam-based formula with added lime-free grit ideal for all acid-loving calcifuge plants such as:-
Azaleas
Camellias
Ericas
Heathers
Magnolias
Rhododendrons

A good make is John Innes Ericaceous Compost which can be used indoors or outdoors - in pots or containers or planting out into the garden

:o)

A bit of a background




Trees and shrubs are the backbone of your landscape. They are used as screens, backgrounds and accents. Trees are used for shade, and for fruit.

Flowering shrubs provide long lasting, beautiful blooms which brighten even the gloomiest of days. Combine evergreens with deciduous shrubs with different flowering times to create a succession of colour and year-round interest. There are shrubs to suit all soils in sun or shade.

My favourite trees would have to be anything within the Acer family (please see pic top right for an example of a few of the many varietys) so here's a little information on them for starters.

Japanese Maples (Acer palmatum) have been cultivated for over 300 years (a long time I think you'll agree). I love them as they offer gardens exceptional versatility giving continuous interest with their varied leaf colours and textures and breathtaking autumn colour. Their leaves vary from bold shapes to delicate feathery forms and colours range through greens, yellows, purples, reds and pinks; which means they'll really fit in with any colour scheme.
As a whole Japanese Maples do not attain great height averaging 5-6 metres for the upright cultivars and 1-2 metres for most of the dissectum group. They are relatively slow growing and the bare branches in winter provide a contrast in form and shape with interesting bark colours. Japanese Maples prefer a position in partial shade. Despite their reputation, few require an acid soil, more important is the soil structure, as it should provide constant moisture.
I find that when planting incorporation of some peat will benefit the plant but generally fertiliser is not necessary. As a rule choose the larger, less delicate leaf shapes for more exposed situations. Maples grow particularly well in containers as patio specimens provided they are not allowed to dry out.
On a final note Acer Brilliantissimum is my all time fave as pictured top left.
Kate :o)


Kates Tree Tips

Welome to my Blog. Here I will share with you hints, tips, advice and interesting facts about young trees.